The Malaga town where oranges grow in August

In the 1980s, Paco 'El Bicho's' orchard, next to the River Cueva in Riogordo, in the east of Malaga province, began to produce the first oranges of August. There, thanks to a very special microclimate, the Rivero family planted around 150 Valencia Late trees, one of the sweetest varieties that matures later than others. Normally, in other parts of the country the harvest takes place between the end of May and June, but it is not so common to harvest them in the middle of August.

Today, for the residents of Riogordo it is quite normal to buy oranges in summer directly from Frutería Eva, the only fruit shop in the town, which also belongs to the same family. They arrive there directly from the orchard every day during summer. "They are of better quality and even cheaper than those imported from other countries," explains Francisco Rivero, Paco's son, better known in the village as “El Bicho”.

A kilo of these summer oranges can be bought at the greengrocer's for 1.20 euros, with the guarantee that they come from a family-run farm in the same town. The shop closes for holidays from 15 August.

The fruit shop is also popular with residents of nearby towns and villages including Colmenar and Casabermeja, who are aware of the seasonal availability of oranges.

The characteristics of the oranges from this orchard in Riogordo are related to the privileged climate of the fertile land near the River Cueva. Paco, who inherited the farm from his father Joseíco (who had the same nickname), is usually there in the afternoons. Although at 78, Paco is retired, he still visits the orchard and has passed on his passion for the orchard to his son Francisco, who runs it as a hobby.

In addition to the late oranges, this 15,000-square-metre farm currently produces peppers, aubergines, cucumbers and tomatoes, which go directly to the fruit shop owned by Eva, Paco's daughter-in-law and Francisco's wife. "In autumn we also usually have pomegranates and quinces," Francisco explains.

Among the star products of the summer is also the variety of tomato that the Rivero family calls ‘grueso de Riogordo’ (dense from Riogordo). Its characteristics and flavour are very similar to those of the ‘huevo de toro’ (beef tomatoes) but it has very different nuances thanks to the fact that it is irrigated by the River Cueva.

This river is characterised by the dense mineral content of its waters. It is no coincidence that this is where the name Riogordo comes from (literally 'fat river'). Many residents from nearby towns and villages also come for this dense Riogordo tomato, as it is a large, fleshy and tasty fruit due to the aforementioned minerality of the water with which it is irrigated.

These are just some of the secrets of Paco 'El Bicho's' orchard which, in the post-war period, "fed many of the village's residents", as Francisco explains. The 15,000-square-metre orchard is only a fifth of a farm where there are also almond and olive trees. This year the farm has been rewarded by the abundance of the River Cueva, which is still flowing vigorously towards Comares. In other years it had dried up by this time, but the winter and spring rains have made it possible for it to continue irrigating and filling this remote corner of the Axarquía with life.

Where to buy oranges in August