Rafael Urquizar: 'In fashion there are a lot of divas and egos; in my case, I'm just very shy'
With four decades of experience, the Malaga designer has featured on the catwalk in every season of Madrid fashion week
Two months ago Eurovision put him in the spotlight thanks to Melody, who wore one of his outfits at the event's turquoise carpet. Another milestone in the career of one of the great names in Malaga fashion. With four decades of work behind him, Rafael Urquizar (born in Malaga in 1971) is the only Malaga designer to feature in Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid.
A staunch defender of less is more and enemy of microtrends, his multifaceted resume includes having designed the robes for the Cofradía del Amor brotherhood and being an elder brother in the Esclavitud Dolorosa brotherhood.
- Be honest, have you been curious enough to type your name into ChatGPT?
- Well, no. But I do have friends who have done it and they tell me it nails it. I'm a bit clumsy with technology.
- I'll save you the trouble: according to ChatGPT, Rafael Urquizar is "a leading Spanish designer, originally from Malaga, recognised for his work in haute couture and bridal fashion with an elegant and sophisticated style that combines traditional techniques with a contemporary approach". Is this description accurate?
- Totally, AI is so clever.
- Anything to add?
- I would say timelessness. I have always tried to ensure that my collections have a common thread, that the brand has a seal of identity and that my customers can continue to wear my garments for many years to come, without the tyranny of fast fashion.
- How much damage has been done by fast fashion, influencers and social media?
- A lot. Besides, trends are not for everyone. There are many people without personality who get carried away by what they see on social media and get lost. It doesn't work for everyone.
"In summer I can't stand seeing people shirtless on the street; it discredits Malaga's image"
- Are there any current trends that you hate?
- Wearing clothes that don't fit you. It's something that horrifies me and I see it a lot. Everyone should have a mirror at home and see what looks good and what doesn't. In summer I can't stand seeing people in the street with their shirts off. It discredits the image of Malaga. I also see a lot of young people with their bellies out. I respect everyone, but it's not pretty.
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- Your atelier has a 4.8 Google score which is very good. Is there any greater reward than a satisfied customer?
- It's very important to me because apart from doing fashion shows, my whole purpose is to dress my clients. Customers feeling at ease is something to be grateful for. At the end of the day, we become friends, we assess, we advise...
- What remains of the Rafa who, at the age of 16, started out in the family workshop?
- Well, the same excitement remains - that's the beauty of it. I always say that the day I'm no longer excited about my work, I'll quit. I'm lucky enough to do what I've always wanted to do. Even if I won the lottery, I'd keep working, although I'd do more of what I wanted to do, in other words, I'd enjoy it even more.
- You are the only person from Malaga who has the privilege of stepping onto the Pasarela Cibeles today (at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid). Does that give you a boost of self-esteem?
- For me it is an honour and a challenge every six months, because it is a very demanding test. I don't make the decisions for the fashion show, it's dictated by a committee that has to revalidate you every season according to your collection. It makes you incredibly nervous, but I love it. It fills me with life, even if I say "I'm dead" in the moment.
I always take a picture of the Esclavitud Dolorosa, the Macarena and the Rocío to my fashion shows. And before going out, I make the sign of the cross because I'm terrified of falling
- Do you have any rituals before the catwalk?
- I am usually very calm because I am a person who takes everything very well prepared. Even the models bring their designs from Malaga. I am very Andalusian, very 'rociero' and very 'semanasantero' and I always carry a picture of my virgin (I am an elder brother of the Esclavitud Dolorosa), of the Macarena and of the Rocío. And before I go out I make the sign of the cross because I'm afraid of falling.
- Nieves Álvarez, Paula Vázquez, Pastora Soler, India Martínez, Manuela Villena, Nuria Fergó... and the latest and most talked about this year Melody. Tell us about the host of obstacles you faced in your recent work.
- For the delivery we were caught in the massive blackout, the railway chaos due to the theft of copper cable, the list goes on. It was surreal because we couldn't do anything about it. In the end it was a friend who brought her the dress in his car.
- Speaking of divas, is there a lot of diva attitude in fashion?
- Yes, I think we are all a bit of a diva. We all have our egos, we all want to be the best at what we do - which is great because it drives you to excel. In my case, people think I'm cocky but actually I'm shy. Besides, I'm a very short-sighted person: if I don't say hello, it's because I can barely see from a distance.
- You have designed the robes for the Cofradía del Amor and you are the elder brother of the Esclavitud Dolorosa, how do you combine them?
- It's a bit crazy but I manage. Fortunately, it's a very small brotherhood and we dedicate ourselves more to internal worship. We don't go out during Holy Week and we don't have many brothers.
- Where will we see you in Malaga in the summer?
- I'm very lazy, anyone who knows me knows that. I hardly ever take the car and I don't go to the beach unless I'm going straight to a chiringuito. My area is the Plaza de la Merced, but I miss afternoon entertainment. Maybe it's my age, but I never want to go out at night.
- Anything in your suitcase?
- What I'm missing is a suitcase. I keep the boot full of things 'just in case'. In case it's cold, in case we go out for dinner, and so on. I'm so fed up with putting outfits together that I prefer to pack everything: I'll decide what to wear later.
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