What is bargain wine?

George M. Taber, best known for chronicling the 1976 Judgement of Paris, turns his attention to the rise of affordable yet quality wines in A Toast to Bargain Wines. Written in the aftermath of the global financial crisis, Taber’s book celebrates how consumer habits shifted - driven by economic strain and wine surpluses - toward reasonably priced labels. His premise is that innovation and global competition gave birth to a new wine culture, with less stress on prestige and more on accessibility.

Taber profiles key figures behind this shift, including Fred Franzia of Two Buck Chuck wine fame and John Casella of Yellow Tail, to show how unconventional approaches transformed wine consumption. Through their stories and industry insights, Taber illustrates how high-quality wines under €10 became increasingly available. He even includes a guide to his top choices, all reflecting a diverse international selection.

At the time of its 2011 publication, this ‘bargain wine phenomenon’ felt revolutionary. Prices dropped, quality improved, and more people found wine within reach. But enthusiasm has since cooled. Recent sales data shows a steep decline in the lower-price segments, suggesting the magic has worn off. Wineries now seem more focused on trendier products like canned wine and cocktails.

Taber’s vision - where good wine is not a luxury but a daily pleasure -feels less current today, despite the continued presence of budget bottles. The optimism that once surrounded cheap, decent wine has faded. Was it a passing moment or the beginning of a broader shift that’s simply lost momentum? Either way, Taber’s work captured a significant, if fleeting, chapter in history.